Set in 1880s New York, The Gilded Age explores a society shaped by industrial fortunes, inherited wealth and fiercely guarded social hierarchies. Created by Julian Fellowes, the mind behind Downton Abbey, the series takes us into an earlier era of aristocratic ambition, when wealthy American heiresses, later known as ‘dollar princesses’, began marrying into cash-strapped European nobility in exchange for titles and social standing. At the centre of this changing world is Bertha Russell, a woman determined to turn her husband George Rusell’s industrial fortune into social power. Her wardrobe, designed by Kasia Walicka Maimone, is just as ambitious. Looking back at some of her most memorable ensembles from the first three seasons, we explore the elaborate silhouettes, sumptuous fabrics, intricate detailing and extraordinary craftsmanship that make her one of television’s most fascinatingly dressed characters.
An Icy Welcome To East 61st Street
Photograph: (The Gilded Age)
Bertha’s arrival at her new 61st Street mansion calls for an equally grand introduction. Dressed in icy blue satin, she wears a structured bodice and voluminous skirt finished with delicate white ball-like fringe. Her sculptural matching hat opens into a dramatic cascade of frosted egret feathers, complementing the grandeur of the mansion against the more traditional sensibilities of neighbour Mrs Van Rhijn; the ensemble establishes Bertha’s distinctly modern approach to dressing and making an entrance.
The Blue And White Of Belonging
Photograph: (The Gilded Age)
This white day dress, punctuated by deep royal-blue velvet panels, reflects a more considered side of Bertha’s wardrobe. Sharp chevron detailing shapes the bodice, while a high lace-trimmed collar and gathered skirt soften the silhouette. The velvet continues along the cuffs and beneath the skirt’s draping, creating a cohesive finish. Her feathered sailor-style hat completes the look. As Bertha navigates Newport’s society circles, the precise two-tone palette reflects her growing understanding of how to make an impression without abandoning her individuality.
A Flash Of Copper In A Sea Of Old Money
Photograph: (The Gilded Age)
The burnt copper silk and cool grey-blue stripes create an interesting contrast in this gown. Fine black dotted lines trace the striped panels, bringing structure to an otherwise extravagant silhouette. The copper, meanwhile, commands attention through its rich colour and volume. Much like Bertha herself, the dress attempts to balance the desire for acceptance with an unmistakable need to stand out. Its copper tones also make for an interesting visual connection to the family’s later association with copper mining.
Steel, Satin And Social Ambition
Photograph: (The Gilded Age)
Lustrous satin, metallic lace and a dramatic bustle come together in this silver and pewter-grey ensemble. Finished with a matching halo hat and diamond jewellery, including an elaborate necklace and elongated earrings, the look is unapologetically opulent. The steel-like sheen of the fabric feels particularly fitting for Bertha, whose family’s fortune is built on the steel and railroad industry. As she welcomes Ward McAllister, she is one step closer to securing her place among New York’s coveted Four Hundred.
Cobalt Blue And The Luxury of Leisure
Photograph: (The Gilded Age)
Designed by Kasia Walicka Maimone, this cobalt-blue and silver-grey dressing robe brings grandeur into Bertha’s private quarters. The flowing 1880s-inspired tea gown features cascading sleeves, a cape-like shoulder detail and a shimmering satin panel down the front, finished with an ornate metallic tassel closure. Tea gowns offered Victorian women a more relaxed alternative to formal dressing, but Bertha’s version is anything but understated. Even away from society’s watchful eyes, she has little interest in dressing inconspicuously.
A Gown With A Royal Silhouette
Photograph: (The Gilded Age)
Rich crimson velvet and shimmering gold lace give this gown a regal presence. Its square neckline and dramatic standing collar draw inspiration from the grandeur of Elizabethan portraiture, while the look references John Singer Sargent’s 1892 painting Mrs Hugh Hammersley. The combination of deep velvet and delicate gold detailing makes for a striking study in texture. As Bertha hosts the Morrises in her new home, the gown reflects a woman who is no longer seeking an invitation but establishing herself as the hostess.
The Power Of Dressing At Ease
Photograph: (The Gilded Age)
This sheer white morning dress offers a softer take on Bertha’s usual grandeur. Delicate vertical stripes, cascading pleated ruffles and a high neckline give the airy silhouette plenty of character. Its tiered detailing also reflects the elaborate approach to daytime dressing during the Victorian era, when even morning attire followed its own conventions. As Bertha goes about arranging invitations and securing alliances for the Metropolitan Opera House, the dress reminds us that her ambitions rarely take a day off.
A Tiara For The New Queen Of New York
Photograph: (Instagram/gildedagehbo)
Bertha arrives at the Metropolitan Opera House in light raspberry-pink satin, softened by silver-white draping across the neckline and underskirt. But it is her jewellery that commands attention: a diamond tiara, layers of pearls and an elaborate diamond necklace complete the extravagant ensemble. With New York society finally within her grasp, Bertha’s ambitions are now directed towards British aristocracy. As she considers a match between her daughter Gladys and the Duke of Buckingham, her wardrobe begins to reflect the world she hopes to enter.
A Worth Creation For A Russell Occasion
Photograph: (The Gilded Age)
For Gladys’s debut, Bertha wears a gown inspired by an original House of Worth creation from 1898–1900. Ivory, periwinkle-grey and jet-black velvet appliqués sweep across the bodice and trail down its magnificent train, while layers of sheer chiffon and tulle soften the sculpted silhouette. The intricate velvet pattern follows the body with remarkable precision. A fitting choice for such an important occasion, the gown draws from the legacy of Charles Frederick Worth, whose Parisian fashion house helped establish the foundations of haute couture.
Ivory Satin And Aristocratic Affairs
Photograph: (The Gilded Age)
By Gladys’s wedding, Bertha’s wardrobe has undergone a noticeable transformation. This ivory-pearl satin morning gown features coral floral brocade, a cameo brooch and voluminous leg-of-mutton sleeves, giving it a distinctly Victorian character. The pronounced shoulder volume was a defining feature of late nineteenth-century fashion, adding structure to the silhouette. Having secured her place in New York society and established connections with British aristocracy, Bertha no longer needs to announce her wealth quite so loudly. Her clothes reflect a woman who knows where she stands.
Silver, Feathers And Sculptural Dressing
Photograph: (The Gilded Age)
This silver-lavender ensemble brings together a fitted bodice, knife-pleated skirt and brocade capelet, finished with long strands of lavender fringe. Her silver satin toque, folded into a sculptural swirl and topped with soaring egret feathers, completes the look. Bertha’s hats are among the most eye-catching elements of her wardrobe, often oversized, feathered and seemingly defying gravity. Here, the curves of the satin, vertical lines of the fringe and height of the feathers work together in a masterclass of costume design.
With the fourth season of The Gilded Age premiering this November and continuing through December, there is plenty more of Bertha Russell’s wardrobe to look forward to. Having established herself at the very top of New York society, it will be interesting to see how her style evolves and what extravagant creations await us this season. If her previous appearances are anything to go by, we can expect sumptuous fabrics, spectacular hats and costumes that are every bit as ambitious as the woman herself. After all, when it comes to Bertha Russell, fashion is never just an afterthought.
Also, Read:
The Story Behind Broderie Anglaise, Fashion’s Timeless Eyelet Detail
Meghan Markle’s Dior Earrings Prove This Maximalist Vintage Jewellery Style Is Back
